A Legend Among Icons - The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

As a fan of IWC it’s easy for me to get excited about a new model and the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is a stand out model from the recently updated range. Celebrating 75 years of this iconic model, IWC has made a subtle change to the case with more flowing lines and a slightly decreased case size of 44.2mm which gives the timepiece a more refined look. This particular model is produced in solid 18ct white gold which gives a classic complication a modern edge.

The ardoise (slate grey) dial of the perpetual calendar is simply stunning, finished with hand applied gold Arabic hour markers along with a slight two-tone effect which makes the sub-dials very readable. The sub dials contain all the information required to read the date, day, month, power reserve, seconds and moon phase designed with star-studded night sky as well as a 4 digit year aperture.

Apart from the look and styling of the haute horology watch the true beauty lies within, and flipping it over reveals the exquisite newly designed Calibre 52610. IWC have long been a brand that has put great emphasis on producing its own calibres and as long ago as 1895 (just 27 years after it was founded) the following statement was found in an IWC catalogue: “The production of original watch movements closely follows the rules of watchmaking and the laws of mathematics, systematically applied by the very best master watchmakers. With the exception of the dials, hands and springs, the vast majority of the parts are manufactured in our factory.”

IWC has stayed true to its heritage of watchmaking and this new calibre is no different, with advancements in several key areas all working together to drive the energy-sapping perpetual calendar complication whilst storing a full 7 days power reserve. This has been made possible by the increase in frequency to 28,800 beats per hour and bi-directional Pellaton winding with 2 barrels. These are rarely found together even in the most premium haute horlogerie timepieces.

Another advancement comes from the use of ceramic, but rather than using it to protect the watch’s aesthetics, IWC have used it to protect some of the main components inside the movement. The winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic, and the rotor bearing of white ceramic; or to be more precise, zirconium oxide. This means these major components are practically free from wear and tear and therefore can give better performance and a longer service interval. Using ceramic like this is very unusual as machining such tiny parts is very difficult, but this cements IWC as a pioneering and innovative watchmaker.

Just staring through the sapphire crystal caseback, the one thing that you notice over everything else is just how well it is finished. You can imagine the amount of man hours it has taken to hand apply all the different effects. A special touch only for the perpetual calendar is the solid 18ct rose gold rotor with a medallion proudly displaying the company’s moto ''Probus Scafusia'' meaning roughly ''quality craftsmanship from Schaffhausen''. The quality of this craftsmanship truly radiates from this beautiful watch. It is a real joy to wear.