TUDOR Pelagos FXD 42mm Watch M25717-N0001

TUDOR presents a brand-new tool watch inspired by the first issue of TUDOR watches to the US Navy in the late 1950s. The US Navy wore TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariners (ref: 7928) which was the premier function tool for functions including the Underwater Swimmers School, Seabees Engineer Battalion, Underwater Demolition Teams and the Navy SEALs. This new watch taps into the history of the US Navy military sub wristwatches, whilst providing todays client with the technical performance TUDOR is known for.

The case is made from a matte finish grade 2 titanium, and features a unique fixed bar at the top, ensuring the spring bars and case are entirely integrated rather than separate. This ensures the model can still work to its full potential if one of the spring bars were to come loose. The Pelagos is first and foremost a tool timepiece, which the design of this case echoes. Measuring 42mm across, 52mm top to bottom (or 'lug to lug') and with a 12.75mm depth, this watch is 1.5mm thinner than other Pelagos models. It is also waterproof to 200m (660ft) thanks to the screw down crown.

The bezel is an ISO certified diver's bezel, with a unidirectional turning that features 60 clicks and a unique 'drop in' click that allows the wearer to feel when the bezel has completed a full turn and is back at the 12 o'clock position. The bezel is slightly larger than the case, making it easier to grip thanks to the scalloped edge of the titanium. The insert is made from ceramic, with numerals filled with Super-LumiNova and that shine blue - typically the final colour you see underwater.

The striking white square Super-LumiNova plots are 2D, a traditional style that compliment the snowflake hands - which have been part of the TUDOR diving watch identity since 1969. Red 'Pelagos' inscription decorates this black dial, which pay homage to those 1960s divers watches and are popular amongst collectors, often being referred to as 'single red' or 'double red' models.

Powering this timepiece is the TUDOR in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602. It has a tungsten rotor weight and the hairspring is made from silicon, ensuring anti-magnetic, temperature-resistant and shock-proof properties. Every movement of the wrist wearing this timepiece is translated into the power reserve, which offers 70hrs. This calibre is a superior performance, which is first COSC-certified to -4 +6 seconds, then further tested in-house by TUDOR to -2 +4 seconds. TUDOR finishing including sandblasting and laser etching completes this brilliant movement.

The original 1950s divers' watches did not come with a bracelet, and instead were equipped with a single strip of fabric separate to the case to ensure the timepiece is still functional if it is damaged. TUDOR pay homage to this by offering this timepiece with a olive green fabric strap made from woven ribbon. The entirety of the watch is made in Switzerland with the exception of this woven strap, which is made in France from a 5th generation family business, operating on looms over 100 years old. The buckle on this watch is made from grade 5 titanium. Also included is a black rubber strap, that is embossed with a motif to mimic fabric. The rubber has fibreglass running through it, to ensure it is tearproof for that robust, army-issue aesthetic.

This timepiece has a 5-year international guarantee (which can be transferred if purchased as a gift) and requires servicing every 10 years thanks to the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre.